The last time Dolce & Gabbana used spaghetti as a prop, in November 2018, the brand found itself facing widespread accusations of racism. The promotional videos in question, which showed an Asian model struggling to eat the pasta with chopsticks, received so much backlash that the brand was forced to cancel its planned show in China.
Four years on, and the familiar scene was replayed — with a few significant edits — at the opening of the house’s Spring-Summer 2023 show. Before models walked out, a black and white film showed Kardashian tucking into a plate of spaghetti with a wry smile on her face. Was it a moment of “sorry not sorry” or an attempt to poke fun at the brand’s previous missteps? We may never know but it was a rare ackowedgemet of a controversy that the label has remained largely quiet about.
Elsewhere, designer debuts at Etro, Missoni, Ferragamo and Bally also breathed new energy into the week despite mixed reviews from critics.
Rebellion involves risk and not all risks paid off. From obnoxiously delayed shows to the numerous models who fell victim to the slip-and-slide that was Roberto Cavali’s runway, the wheels came off on a number of occasions, but there was still plenty to celebrate throughout the week.
Belle of the ball: Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy’s second collection for Bottega Veneta was the undisputed triumph of the week. Combining womenswear and menswear, the elegant, thoughtful collection was filled with almost every item you might need in a wardrobe, from jeans and tanks to suits and gorgeous cocktail dresses. Repeating a technical trick he first played with his debut collection, Blazy put Kate Moss in seemingly simple jeans and flannel shirt that were actually printed leather. The show’s final look, a bright turquoise, heavily fringed dress, had the crowd cheering before the models came back out for the customary parade.