Coach staged their spring 2025 show today on the rooftop of the New York High Line, a stone’s throw from the brand’s headquarters. Creative director Stuart Vevers used the collection as an opportunity to pen a paean to American fashion in general and New York City specifically—the opening look was a beige tailored trouser worn with a high-end take on the iconic I Heart NY tourist tees, a motif that appeared throughout the collection, including a particularly chic distressed, deconstructed knit, worn with leather trousers.
Vevers’ primary goal with Spring 25 was to rediscover American classics through fresh eyes, taking recognisable motifs of Americana and giving them a youthful glow-up. Take the navy blazer, for example, usually the embodiment of stiff American prep.
Vevers offered oversized silhouettes in lightweight cotton with delicate pinstripes, thrown over cool leather separates and chunky boots, for a masterclass in contrast. Chinos were another example. Lest they fall into frat boys on a yacht territory, Vevers reworked the classic trouser shape in a looser silhouette inspired by skater pants.
They were styled with distressed white tees and endlessly wearable distressed leather bomber jackets. Elsewhere, denim—much of it reworked from archival Coach pieces, thanks to the brand’s successful, sustainability-focused (Re)Loved program—was low slung and distressed.
The whole collection had an effortless, undone quality that felt incredibly modern. Striped cotton pajama-style separates were dressed up with distressed chocolate leather jackets, paired with oversized clasp-fastened clutch bag, tucked nonchalantly under the arm.
It’s exactly the kind of look you’d expect some fabulous 20-something to be wearing on their early morning bodega run, complete with dark-tinted sunglasses and artful bed head (provided on the runway by Guido). For evening, there was a similarly less-is-more feel: satin babydoll dresses in a palette of baby yellows, arctic blues, and lilacs, were sweet but not saccharine, dressed down with chunky leather boots and structured leather coats.
